August 29th, 2006 (Tuesday) – The Landlubber

Day 1 (Sun 8/27) - Day 2 (Mon 8/28) - Day 3 (Tue 8/29) - Day 4 (Wed 8/30)

Too see photos from this trip, click here: 2006-08-27 Apostle Islands

Mon, 7:00 AM
Quarry Bay, Stockton Island
Wind: NE 15 to 25
Temp: ~60

Although we are protected from the NE winds, we can hear them all night long whistling and roaring through the trees surrounding the bay. I make a breakfast of Dick’s Super Duper Vegan Pancakes, which Rick covers in Karen’s home-made raspberry freezer jam, but for which I prefer peanut butter and maple syrup. We eat our fill and prepare for a day of real sailing, tucking away all loose objects where they will be constrained in their movements.

Heading: more or less 120° (east)
Wind: NE 15 to 25
Temp: ~60
Small Craft Advisory for the afternoon from the Coast Guard

We weigh anchor and head east toward Presque Isle Point (actually a peninsula of Stockton Island that was at one time an island off its southeastern shore), winds picking up, sky overcast, clouds hanging low. The forecast predicts 15 to 25 knot winds from the NE, waves of 5 to 7 feet, but no rain, and opines that a small craft advisory may be necessary later in the day as winds build. The boat has been rocking as we are preparing to depart, and I am feeling queasy. I take one Dramamine pill—too little, too late.

The channel between Stockton Island and Michigan Island heads NE, straight out to the open lake and 150 miles of open water. As we leave the protection of Presque Isle Bay, we encounter those open winds and waves and did it take us for a ride! We both donned warm gear--Rick his bright yellow rain suit and I my down winter jacket. I become nearly paralyzed almost immediately by nausea, weakness in the legs and a dry mouth. Rick advises that I focus on the horizon which helps slightly but does not diminish the effects of the wrenching movements of the boat. Oddly, I am not particularly nervous or afraid of the conditions, but the severity of motion sickness is unnerving. I take another Dramamine pill but to no avail. Perhaps the big breakfast was foolish—another landlubber’s mistake.

Rick keeps the helm as we cross the channel toward Michigan Island in hopes of adjusting sails when we arrive in its lee. Although we are driving a 30-foot boat, it feels like the proverbial matchstick being thrown about. He successfully accomplishes the crossing without assistance from me, and he makes some adjustments when we arrived. He decides that we should return and anchor for the day, the conditions being too rough. We come about and head into the channel again, my eyes on Presque Isle, wishing it closer.

I fear that this shows me the end of my sailing exploits—the sea is just too rough for this novice’s constitution. I am surprised by the strength of the symptoms. I have experienced long-term nausea before, but this was debilitating. If Rick had needed me to take the helm for any length of time I may not have been able to comply.

As we pass back under the protection of Presque Isle, the waves diminish along with my discomfort and I take the helm as we attempt to tack up into Presque Isle Bay to moor. The boat cannot sail close enough to the wind to make any progress (no closer than 50°) and we tack fruitlessly, losing enough leeway on each attempt to offset our forward progress. We resort to the motor and anchor in the center of the bay.

Its late-afternoon, and the sky begins to clear. I attempt to photograph the bay for a stitched panoramic pic but its very difficult from the deck of the boat (see above--it worked). Dinner is calling and I prepare an Indian vegetarian stir-fry (Rick insists that he wants to eat vegetarian while we’re on the boat) which Rick accepts, sans Indian Handi spices. We stay on the boat, picking away at our agenda, and eventually deciding to park in the cockpit to watch the stars come out.

The sun sets over the western hills of Stockton Island; munchies appear along with the Big Dipper and Polaris, and we watch the Milky Way present to us its glorious vastness, horizon to horizon; the crescent moon's descending autumn color, a satellite, which Rick believes to be the International Space Station, tracking approximately SW to NE. We stay out until 11:30, not wanting to waste a moment of beauty.

Later, I arise again, as I did last night to see the Big Dipper indicating Polaris from the eastern sky, the scope of the galaxy above exceeding my ability to comprehend.

Day 1 (Sun 8/27) - Day 2 (Mon 8/28) - Day 3 (Tue 8/29) - Day 4 (Wed 8/30)

Too see photos from this trip, click here: 2006-08-27 Apostle Islands