August 30th, 2006 (Wednesday) – Blue Water Sailing

Day 1 (Sun 8/27) - Day 2 (Mon 8/28) - Day 3 (Tue 8/29) - Day 4 (Wed 8/30)

Too see photos from this trip, click here: 2006-08-27 Apostle Islands

Mon, 9:00 AM
Presque Isle Bay, Stockton Island
Heading: Beating up 25° (NNE)
Wind: NE 10 to 15
Temp: 70+

The brilliant 9AM sunshine and modest breezes awake both of us. The forecast calls for 10 to 15 knot winds from the NE, and 3 to 5 foot waves—much tamer than yesterday. Eager to take full advantage, we weigh anchor immediately. I take one Dramamine pill as a precaution, even though the conditions feel very different from yesterday.

The channel beyond Presque Isle Bay beckons to the east and we begin tacking upwind along the eastern shore of Stockton Island, hoping to get around its northern tip in time to make the long run back to Bayfield on the NE wind. Ricks shakes one reef out of the mainsail as we tack up the shoreline, and I learn how to handle the boat while beating up, still no closer to the wind than 45° or 50°. “Ridiculous” Rick opines, but we make good progress and eventually come around to the north side of the island to begin the long broad reach around the island.

The combination of a mercifully empty stomach and lighter conditions on the water gradually emancipated me from the fear of another bout of motion sickness. We both felt great. Those of you who know Rick know that he is not a demonstrative person, so his comment "This is nice" provided his rousing endorsement of the day.

Heading: 260° to 240° (SW)
Wind Speed/Direction: NE 10 to 15
Temp: 60+

The islands slip by as we sail with the quiet wind broad off our port beam. Outer Island, Cat Island, Ironwood, Manitou, Oak, Hermit, Basswood… We no longer work against the wind and waves; we run with them jibing to one side of channel and back, the waves’ stately rhythm carrying us forward effortlessly. We watch loons racing across the waves like air-born torpedos. I stay at the helm as mile after emerald mile slip under our keel. Rick approaches memories of happiness; my own memories of yesterday begin to fade as the balm of shimmering blue water sailing works its transient magic.

We are overtaken by fishing vessels, great snarling brutish beasts, attended always by groupies in the deceptively lovely form of seagulls swirling aloft opportunistically. Bayfield approaches; we avoid a ferry; we clean the cabin; take down the foresail and main; start the motor—that most melancholy of sounds to a sailor’s ear. Particulars demand our attention; we dock; we disembark; carry luggage and food back to the Purple Toyota 4-Runner 4x4. Rick wishes we had elected to stay another day. We leave reluctantly, but I have had experiences this week sufficient to keep me satisfied with normalcy for a time.

Heading: more or less 180° (S)
Wind Speed/Direction: NE 15 to 20 knots
Apparent wind: S at 45 knots
Temp: 60+

We dine at Perkins near Barker’s Island, flag extended to the SW by the brisk wind, and I must resort to ordering breakfast to find a vegetarian meal, not to mention vegan. Rick indulges on a ham and cheese omelet with hashbrowns, after which we depart for cities to the south. A multi-car and motorcycle accident and its attendant bee-hive of activity greets us some time out of Duluth. Rick debates whether to stop and offer his EMS skills. The scene is well attended and we continue, tired. Rick comments on the speed of the miles, making comparison to our pace of the prior three days.

Our thoughts alternate between the wild serenity of the Great Lakes and our respective professional and personal responsibilities, hoping by force of will to turn transience into permanence. Silently we admit that paradise is not in the present, but for a short time we approached it.

http://www.nps.gov/archive/apis
http://sweetwatervisions.com/Pages/galleryAI.html

Day 1 (Sun 8/27) - Day 2 (Mon 8/28) - Day 3 (Tue 8/29) - Day 4 (Wed 8/30)

Too see photos from this trip, click here: 2006-08-27 Apostle Islands